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St Mark's Square

The heart of Venice is the vast Piazza San Marco. Described by Napoleon as the most elegant drawing room in Europe, this is the great architectural showpiece of Venice. With its pigeons, caf? bands and exotic shops under the arcades, it is also the hub of tourist Venice. At one end of the piazza, crouching like an enormous, dark amphibious reptile, the great Basilica di San Marco (St Mark's Basilica) invites visitors to explore its mysterious depths.

Basilica di San Marco
The Basilica di San Marco (open Mon-Sat and Sun pm; closed am on holidays; entrance fee for some parts) is named after the evangelist St. Mark whose remains were recovered (or stolen, depending on your viewpoint) by the Venetians from Alexandria in the 9th century. The then ruler of Venice, Doge Giustiniano Participazio, built a church on this site to house the remains. The original church was destroyed by fire a hundred years later, and was replaced at the end of the 11th century by the huge ornate edifice we see today.

The sumptuous fa?ade has five portals decorated with shimmering mosaics. The only original mosaic - in the doorway to the far left-gives a good idea of the appearance of the basilica in the 13th century. Above the main portal are replicas of the famous bronze horses, thought to be Roman or Hellenistic works of the 3rd or 4th century AD and looted by the Venetians from Constantinople in 1204. They were taken to Paris by Napaleon in 1797 and returned in 1815, and are now kept inside the basilica, protected from pigeons and pollution.

The sumptuous atmosphere of the interior is enhanced by the decoration of the walls: marble slabs cover the lower part, while golden mosaics adorn the vaults, arches and domes. Following a complex iconographic plan, the mosaics cover 4,000 sq. metres (43,000 sq.ft), which is why St. Mark's is sometimes called the Basilica d'Oro (Church of Gold).

The Doge's Palace
The Palazzo Ducale (open daily; entrance fee) flanks the eastern side of the Piazzetta. This "vast and sumptuous pile", as Byron described it, is the grandest and most conspicuous example of Venetian Gothic in the city. The official residence of the Doge and the seat of government during the republic, it stands today as eloguent evidence of the power and pomp of Venice in its heyday. The art collection here gives a foretast of the countless artistic treasures scattered throughout the city, particularly the works by the two Venetian giants - Tintoretto and Veronese. One painting, Paradise, painted by Tintoretto in 1588-92, was for many years the largest painting in the world (7 metres x 22metres/23 ft x 72 ft).

The Grand Canal
"The great street of Venice", as Henry James prosaically described the Canal Grande (Grand Canal), winds for some 3.5 km (2 miles) through the city. This splendid shimmering thoroughfare is flanked by pastel-coloured palaces in a mixture of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance and baroque styles, built mostly between the 13th and the 18th centuries.

The best way to see the canal is from a boat. If you are feeling flush, hire a gondola from the San Marco waterfront.

Ca'd'Oro
The most beautiful Gothic palace in Venice, the Ca'd'Oro (open daily am only; entrance fee) appears on the right at the first landing stage beyond the bridge. When built in 1420 by the wealthy patrician Marino Contarini, it was covered in gold leaf, hence the name "House of Gold". Inside, the Giorgio Franchetti art gallery comprises a varied collection of paintings, frescoes and sculpture.


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